Daniel Holzman barely has time to spend being executive chef. On Monday afternoon he finished an interview with the Associated Press before running back to the kitchen, then back to floor to meet with yet more people vying for his attention and wanting to know more about the great success of the Meatball Shop. After opening a month ago, the Meatball Shop has already landed loads of press attention, fantastic reviews, and quite a following. While the economy of late has proved disastrous for some, for others it has served as an opportunity to rise up, above and beyond.
Holzman and his partner Michael Chernow decided to open the Meatball Shop about six months ago, hitting the scene in mid-February at full force. Located down on the Lower East Side, the restaurant offers a fairly priced mix and match menu of different types of meatballs, sauces, and sides. The restaurant’s website lists the farms where the ingredients come from, adding appeal to those who are concerned about the sources of their food. Meals end gloriously with homemade ice cream sandwiches. Since its opening, the Meatball Shop has been welcomed by critics and customers, and has welcomed the crowds as well.
Holzman said of the late night crowd that often swarms and stumbles down the streets of the Lower East Side, “Sometimes it can be overwhelming, especially late at night with the drunks. But I hope they all come. I love it. I love every single person. I want everybody here.”
Before the Meatball Shop occupied the small space on Stanton Street between a bar and a bodega there was a Vietnamese sushi restaurant. According to Zagat’s 2010 survey, 102 restaurants in New York closed and 157 opened last year. Alex Horna, the assistant general manager at ‘Inoteca, an Italian wine bar and restaurant just a couple blocks away from the Meatball Shop, said the reason for what seems to be a successful market for new restaurants is due to the closings of others. He explained that when restaurants don’t make it they have to find someone to fill their lease and license, and fast.
As for business at ‘Inoteca, Horna said in general figures have been down from this time last year, but for the Lower East side, the time for banging business starts in the summer. “It’s a seasonal thing. For uptown restaurants, summer is the worst time. On the Lower East Side, it’s the best. With outdoor seating, people know they have to keep ordering if they want to keep their seat outside.” Horna hopes business will pick up, for such a lack of affects not just the restaurant and its name but all of the staff as well.
Outside of New York, the economy is bleak in other states. In New Mexico, many businesses are running on empty these days. Susan Taylor, 43, a seasoned hostess at Osteria D’Assisi, a popular staple in Santa Fe’s dining scene, says business has been drastically worse than previous years, “As someone who’s being tipped out on the affair, it’s definitely down.”
Matt Krell, 28, a commercial real estate broker in the city said, “The New York market is completely different. We’ve already seen a turn around. Vacancy rates are down. If you walk down the street, there are far less for sale signs in the windows.”
Business on the Lower East Side is lucky thanks to the popularity of the neighborhood. When discussing the increased closings and ghost town feel of the Upper East Side, Krell said, “There’s something to be said about the bars and restaurants on the Upper East Side, the neighborhood has cooled down and they’re not attracting people.”
For businesses that are managing to stay open, the rate of employment may be decreasing. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the rate of unemployment in the service industry was at a ten year record low in January, 11.4%. People who do have jobs seem to be spending more, according to the Bureau of Economic Analysis which is part of the US Department of Commerce, gross domestic purchases in the US increased by 5.5% in the fourth quarter, up from the 3.0% increase in the third, as shown in their GDP report on February 26. While the very products people are buying was not stated, on the Lower East Side, it just might be meatballs.
Back down on Stanton, the funky, tattoo covered workers at the Meatball Shop look happy to be part of a piece of success in this mixed up economy. Holzman said, “I think the economy worked in our favor. We had some opportunity to sneak in here as these little guys who are getting a lot of recognition.” And as for the Meatball Shop’s success, “It’s been really great. It’s been overwhelming and much better than I expected.”
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